What and Where to Eat and Drink
A large variety of fruits and vegetables are available throughout the year, though many are seasonal. Oranges, grapefruits, limes, lemons, melons, papayas, mangoes, avocados, strawberries, passion fruit, apples, bananas, pineapples, dates, coconuts, ground nuts (peanuts), cashew nuts, tomatoes, cucumbers, aubergine (eggplant), courgette (zucchini), lettuce, onions, spring onions, garlic, carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, green beans, maize (corn), okra, peppers, and herbs (mint, parsley, dill, coriander/cilantro) can be found at many market stalls, though of course not all at the same time.
Some of the fruit and vegetables sold at the markets are locally grown but most of them are imported. The grocery stores often carry some fruit and vegetables also, though not as fresh and more expensive.
Lady fish, barracuda, bonga fish, butter fish, captain fish, catfish, tuna, squid, octopus, Atlantic prawns, lobster, crab, beef, chicken, lamb, pork, bush meat (wild boar or bush rat), and eggs are also widely available.
Note: upcountry the availability of fresh food is limited. Also, animal protein is the focus of most Gambian dishes, and even meat or fish stock will often be used for cooking rice. Therefore, if you are a strict vegetarian, you may have to stick with purchasing your own food from the markets and cooking your own meals to ensure your vegetarian standards. Some restaurants will offer vegetarian options in their menus but it cannot be guaranteed that the food is truly free of animal products.
Gambian dishes
Below are some of the common Gambian dishes and food available at many restaurants and street stalls. Check out the recipes section for how to make some of these dishes.
Benachin – rice dish made with tomato paste and spices, a variety of vegetables such as green peppers, cassava, carrots, potatoes, tomatoes, and topped with meat, fish, and/or chicken.
Jollof rice – similar to Benachin, rice dish made with palm oil, tomato paste, a variety of vegetables such as hot red peppers, aubergine, carrots, and meat, fish, or chicken.
Plasas – meat and/or dried fish cooked with okra or cassava leaf and lots of palm oil, served with rice.
Chicken Yassa – chopped-up chicken fried with onion, green pepper, black pepper, and lime, served with rice.
Domodah – meat or fish stew made with peanut butter and tomato paste, served with rice.
Afra – basically chopped-up and grilled beef, chicken, or lamb with lots of black pepper and salt, often served with mustard.
Tapalapa – dense version of a French baguette, served either plain or with butter, mayonnaise, chocolate spread, boiled or fried eggs, boiled potatoes, fried beans, fish balls, meat balls or luncheon meat. Your choice and depending on availability.
President's Bread - a new baguette-type bread produced by a government-run bakery, simply the best choice of local bread available as is indicated by the daily and nightly line-ups at the store front.
Senfour – lighter version of the tapalapa. Though check with the shop as a new version of the senfour is currently out and is very good! Very similar to the French baguette without the denseness of the tapalapa.
Restaurants in The Gambia are tremendously varied with choices of Indian, Chinese, Lebanese, Italian, Spanish, French, Dutch, Mexican, Swiss, and Eastern European restaurants serving up everything from sandwiches to sushi, and pizzas to prime rib.
Listed below are but a few of the many great restaurants in The Gambia. Keep in mind that although these restaurants may specialize in a certain ethnic cuisine, they will usually all offer seafood, common favourites, and local dishes as well:
Note: Tourists are at times told not to go outside of their hotel compounds, notably in the evenings, by their tour operator representatives. They are told that it is not safe. This is likely done so as to keep the tourists from spending money outside of the hotel! The Gambia is perfectly safe and has so much more to offer than just what is inside of the hotel compounds. Please do go out and experience The Gambia and its wonderful restaurants.
Average prices per person, not including alcohol:
$ = under US$5
$$ = between US$10-15
$$$ = between US$15-$20 or more
Chinese
$-$$ Bamboo, Fajara
One of Gambia's older established restaurants, this cheap and cheerful hideout is located on one of the sandy side streets in Fajara. Sister restaurant is located in Senegambia under the name Jade, just past The Kora Bar & Restaurant.
$$$ The Mandarin, Kololi
Close to the Senegambia strip, offering good Chinese food and nice elegant surroundings. Same owner as the popular Clay Oven.
$-$$ Shanghai Chinese, Kololi
Good basic favourites including a nice hot & sour soup. This restaurant also serves afra outside, a Gambian favourite.
Indian
$$-$$$ Jewel of India, Senegambia
This recently renovated restaurant has a good buffet night on Wednesdays and Saturdays, located right in the heart of the Senegambia tourist strip. There's also another location in the Kotu tourist strip near the Kombo Beach Hotel.
$$$ The Clay Oven, Fajara
Located in a quiet area of Fajara, this ex-pat favourite has a great all-you-can-eat sizzler night on Tuesdays. It remains a great place for Indian.
International cuisine
$$$ Avocado Restaurant, Kololi
Located in the opulent Coconut Residence, this restaurant has a nice variety of South-East Asian influenced gourmet dishes and great service. An elegant poolside dining experience with a good wine selection.
$$-$$$ Bizarre Cafe, Kololi (above Wishes shop)
This cafe, open for lunch, offers wonderful paninis, fresh daily salads and soups, and a great selection of freshly baked cakes and pies. Free wireless Internet on site also. In the evenings another chef takes over for dinner.
$$-$$$ Captain's Table, Kotu
Designed in a modern yet traditional setting, this place next to the Bakotu Hotel serves large portions of great food and has good service. Try the grilled Baracuda steak.
$$$ Gaya Café, Kololi
Great place for lunch, and browse the expensive world art for sale around you while dining.
$$-$$$ The Kora Bar & Restaurant, Senegambia (author's favourite)
Beautifully built restaurant at the more serene side of the tourist strip with a luscious garden, great food & service, and has pool tables on site. Try their chicken fajitas, grilled fish dishes, and the seafood feast for two. Also, the fresh profiteroles, cheesecakes and very good coffees are a must. Great place for pina coladas, margaritas, and other cocktails as well.
$$$ The Green Mamba Garden, Senegambia
Mongolian Grill-style buffet with lots to choose from for your stir-fry. The Green Mamba is also a great place for a drink while listening to cool music, has draft Julbrew and pool tables on site also. Ex-pat favourite hangout. Try one of the many unique cocktails infused with local juices.
$$$ Ngala Lodge Restaurant, Fajara
A romantic place to enjoy a good glass of wine, though the lunch menu and service is not what it used to be. Perhaps dinner is a better option.
$$$ Ocean Clipper, Cape Point
Elegant surroundings and it serves a nice but expensive sushi appetizer, located at the Ocean Bay Hotel & Resort.
Italian
$-$$ Paradiso Pizzeria, Senegambia
One of the more popular places on the strip with cheap food for good prices. Not really an Italian restaurant but serves one of the best pizzas in The Gambia, available for take-away as well.
$$ Luigi's, Palma Rima
Good pizzas and pastas and family friendly with an indoor play area for children.
Lebanese
$ Sultan Sweets, Kairaba Avenue
Cheap fast food and sweets, open 24hrs, has nice fresh juices (in season).
$-$$ Chef's Fast Food and Restaurant, just off of Kairaba Avenue
Great for lunch, for the adventurous try the boiled sheep brain.
$$$ Al Basha, Senegambia
Great food & service in elegant surroundings, one of the first established restaurants in the area.
$$$ Shiraz, Palma Rima
Another good Lebanese restaurant complete with water pipe smoking (shisha).
Spanish
$-$$ La Taberna, Kotu
Large portions for good prices and serving tapas upon request.
Swiss
$$-$$$ Henry's, Kotu
Home-cooking flavours. Try the wonderful cheese, meat, and chocolate fondues, needing 1/2 day advanced notice.
General
$-$$ Al Baba Bar & Restaurant, Kotu
Next to La Taberna, large portions, try the grilled half chicken for around US$4.
$$ Casa de Fernando, Senegambia
Good portions and good live music most evenings, located at the front of the Kairaba Hotel.
$-$$ Come Inn Bar & Restaurant, Kairaba Avenue
Ex-pat hangout, cheap draft Julbrew beer and decent cheap food.
$-$$ Francisco’s, Fajara
Good seafood grills in a quiet and luscious jungle setting, bring the mosquito repellent!
$$-$$$ Jo-Jo's Grill & Bistro House, Senegambia
Good service and food and live music on most evenings. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Dinner is recommended over the lunch.
$-$$ Leybato Restaurant, Fajara
At the Leybato Guest House serving simple Gambian dishes on the beach in a relaxed atmosphere.
$-$$ Mama’s, Fajara
Popular place for greasy English breakfasts on the weekend.
$-$$ Mr. Bass, Cape Point
Cheap & busy joint in between the Sunbeach and the Ocean Bay Hotel & Resort.
$-$$ Rainbow Beach Bar, Sanyang
Large and pleasant beach bar at a great beach in the quiet fishing village of Sanyang. Good food and even serves tandoori chicken. Popular spot for tours. Has simple accommodations at the back that are continuously improving and expanding.
$$-$$$ Sailor Beach Bar and Restaurant, Kotu
Good casual place to catch the sunset, right on the beach. Has good seafood and pizzas, and often entertainment on the stage in the evenings.
$ Sandplover Restaurant, Bakau
Very basic and situated on a quiet secluded beach. Try the local Gambian dishes there.
$-$$ Solomon's, Palma Rima
Best place for fresh fish and chips in foil in The Gambia, right on the beach, though order ahead as it can take some time, but it is well worth it.
Gambian drinks
Julbrew – Gambia’s own beer, comes in regular (a light flavour) and export (darker).
Palm wine – also known as jungle juice, made from the juice of the palm tree that is collected (tapped) and fermented.
Wonjo – deep red juice made from the leaves of the sorrell flower and lots of sugar.
Baobab juice – made with the fruit of the baobab tree.
Attaya – green tea with a lot of sugar.
Cocktails, wines, soft drinks, juices (freshly squeezed also), teas, coffees, and bottled water are available at most restaurants.
Keep in mind that The Gambia is a Muslim nation and thus drinking alcohol should be done inside restaurants and bars only, where available.
Note: Gambian tap water is relatively safe to drink in the Kombos area and if you are planning on a lengthy stay you might as well get used to drinking it, as salads, fruits, and vegetables are likely washed in tap water and many ice cubes are made with tap water too. During your first week here, drink mostly bottled water (water can also be purchased in plastic bags, though some are just tap water so be careful), and have about one glass of tap water a day or so to let your system get used to the new water.
You can probably continue to drink bottled water as it is widely available, but getting used to the tap water can come in handy. Upcountry much of the drinking water comes from well water but is usually safe to drink also.
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